Hunting Headwinds

I’ve been spending an unusual amount of time in Brantford lately. It’s not the first place you’d think of if you want to disappear into the great outdoors but, as it turns out, this sleepy little town has some hidden gems worth hunting for. Between the Grand River and the surrounding fields and forests, there’s no shortage of possibilities for adventuring.

I’m about halfway through Original Highways, a history of Canada written in rivers. In a nutshell, we wouldn’t have this beautiful little country of ours without the waterways that allowed us to explore it. The Grand is one of the book’s highlights and, being so close, I figured it was time to experience it for myself.

The river begins north of Grand Valley and runs all the way into Lake Erie. You can hop in almost anywhere, but I was focused on the segment that runs from Glen Morris down to Brantford - about 30km of windy, shallow waters that would certainly carry you into town without you even bothering to paddle. In fact, many of the folks we passed on the river weren’t paddling at all!

A tempting option for traversing the Grand is to pump up a bunch of river rafts (or inflatable pool floaties), fill a cooler full of beers, and spend the day meandering through a series of light rapids and rocky beaches. I opted to float in my sea kayak, which was not ideal for a shallow river, but it did the trick.

I’ve been twice now - early July and early August - and the water level was wildly different. The water moves fast regardless, but it was much lower later in the season. Expect some challenging reads on the rapids and all-but-certain pullovers at various points. You’ll also (almost certainly) have to dangle fleets of kids crushing Bud Lights while blasting Old Town Road shitty bluetooth speakers.

A well-paved rail trail between Brantford and Waterford

On land, Brantford also has an impressive bike trail that (allegedly) runs all the way from town into Port Dover on Lake Erie. It’s an old railway that has been smoothly paved, and is peppered with scenic views of the countryside and historical waypoints. From Brantford to Waterford (the only part of the trail I’ve seen) the trail is remarkably flat and beautiful.

If you happen to find catch a flat tire in Brantford, or find yourself not so exhilarated by the Wayne Gretzky museum, these are two solid options for unexpected adventures in Ontario’s heartland.

Pro Tips

Weekends on the river are busy! If you’re renting a boat from Grand River Experiences or the Grand River Rafting Company, book in advance and consider off-weekend days if you can swing it.
Water levels are a real thing. The best rapids are between Glen Morris and Paris, and after that it gets a bit easier. If you have a boat full of Bud Lights you’re gonna be hauling through the shallows south of Paris.